成也 Halston 敗也 Halston,5件事讓你重新認識美國傳奇設計師 Halston

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Halston (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
Halston (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
NEW YORK CITY - SEPTEMBER 20: Fashion designer Halston, singer Cher and fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent attend Yves Saint Laurent's 'Opium' Perfume Launch Party on September 20, 1978 aboard The Peking, South Street Seaport in New York City. (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
NEW YORK CITY - SEPTEMBER 20: Fashion designer Halston, singer Cher and fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent attend Yves Saint Laurent's 'Opium' Perfume Launch Party on September 20, 1978 aboard The Peking, South Street Seaport in New York City. (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
NEW YORK CITY - SEPTEMBER 20: (L-R) David Geffen, Halston, Yves Saint Laurent, Steve Rubell, Nan Kempner and Fernando Sanchez attend 'Opium' Perfume Launch After Party on September 20, 1978 at Studio 54 in New York City. (Photo by Ron Galella, Ltd./Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
NEW YORK CITY - SEPTEMBER 20: (L-R) David Geffen, Halston, Yves Saint Laurent, Steve Rubell, Nan Kempner and Fernando Sanchez attend 'Opium' Perfume Launch After Party on September 20, 1978 at Studio 54 in New York City. (Photo by Ron Galella, Ltd./Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
Fashion designer Halston (1932 - 1990) attends the Studio 54 Re-Opening Party at Studio 54 in New York City on September 12, 1978. (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
Fashion designer Halston (1932 - 1990) attends the Studio 54 Re-Opening Party at Studio 54 in New York City on September 12, 1978. (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
This sleeveless gown with wrap in blue is one of the designs modeled at Halston's spring-summer collection.
This sleeveless gown with wrap in blue is one of the designs modeled at Halston's spring-summer collection.
Halston and The Halstonettes (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images) *** Local Caption ***
Halston and The Halstonettes (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images) *** Local Caption ***
(Original Caption) New York: Celebrating the move of his custom salon from 68th Street to Fifth Avenue overlooking St. Patrick's Cathedral, designer Halston unveiled his made-to-order collection featuring billowing dresses with ballooning skirts. Puffed skirts that filled with air like parachutes when the mannequins moved were the highlights of Halston's made-to-order Spring-Summer collection. Hems, turned under harem fashion, were often the dipping variety, revealing the legs and matching stockings. Dramatic pure colors-reds, purples, greens, dominated the collection.
(Original Caption) New York: Celebrating the move of his custom salon from 68th Street to Fifth Avenue overlooking St. Patrick's Cathedral, designer Halston unveiled his made-to-order collection featuring billowing dresses with ballooning skirts. Puffed skirts that filled with air like parachutes when the mannequins moved were the highlights of Halston's made-to-order Spring-Summer collection. Hems, turned under harem fashion, were often the dipping variety, revealing the legs and matching stockings. Dramatic pure colors-reds, purples, greens, dominated the collection.

最近人們重新對這位去世30多年的美國設計師 Halston 的事業和人生產生興趣,這要歸功於 Ryan Murphy 為 Netflix 拍攝的電視劇《Halston》,由 Ewan McGregor 飾演這位著名的美國設計師,重現出設計師 Halston 如何在1970年代至1980年代事業突飛猛進的輝煌,到過度沉迷於糜爛的派對生活導致最後一無所有的故事。

Fashion designer Halston (1932 - 1990) attends the Studio 54 Re-Opening Party at Studio 54 in New York City on September 12, 1978. (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
Fashion designer Halston (1932 - 1990) attends the Studio 54 Re-Opening Party at Studio 54 in New York City on September 12, 1978. (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)

#1 時裝事業的起端

1932年4月23日出生在愛荷華州 Des Moines 的 Halston,畢業於芝加哥藝術學院,在未正式踏入時裝界的時候就已經是個成功的帽匠,並在1953年的芝加哥大使酒店開設自己的沙龍。

5年後搬到紐約,Halston 為 Lilly Daché 工作了一年後便到奢侈百貨公司 Bergdorf Goodman 工作,甚至在1961年為第一夫人Jackie Kennedy 設計就職典禮的 pillbox 帽子,讓他的事業得到飛躍猛進。

NEW YORK CITY - SEPTEMBER 20: Fashion designer Halston, singer Cher and fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent attend Yves Saint Laurent's 'Opium' Perfume Launch Party on September 20, 1978 aboard The Peking, South Street Seaport in New York City. (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
NEW YORK CITY - SEPTEMBER 20: Fashion designer Halston, singer Cher and fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent attend Yves Saint Laurent's 'Opium' Perfume Launch Party on September 20, 1978 aboard The Peking, South Street Seaport in New York City. (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)

#2 由最偉大的帽匠躋身為最具影響力的設計師

1966年以 Halston 公司推出高級訂製時裝和成衣系列,並在 Bergdorf Goodman發布首個成衣系列襯托出最優質的製帽技術,便被媒體賦予最偉大的帽匠,但仍不屬於女裝設計師,其時裝展的能力卻得到外界一致的肯定。

1973年,代表美國聯手著名設計師Bill Blass、Oscar de la Renta、Anne Klein 和 Stephen Burrows 共同出戰時裝歷史上的 “Battle of Versailles” ,與法國5位才華洋溢的設計師包括 Yves Saint Laurent、Hubert de Givenchy、Pierre Cardin、Emanuel Ungaro 和 Marc Bohan 比賽。

當年Halston 的運動裝設計,在著名的模特兒Pat Cleveland、Beverly Johnson 和 Alva Chinn 演繹下亮相。這場展示無疑展示了美國最精緻的運動時尚,同時更因為10名黑人模特兒演繹出美國設計,引領業內邁進多樣性和包容性的里程碑。

(Original Caption) New York: Celebrating the move of his custom salon from 68th Street to Fifth Avenue overlooking St. Patrick's Cathedral, designer Halston unveiled his made-to-order collection featuring billowing dresses with ballooning skirts. Puffed skirts that filled with air like parachutes when the mannequins moved were the highlights of Halston's made-to-order Spring-Summer collection. Hems, turned under harem fashion, were often the dipping variety, revealing the legs and matching stockings. Dramatic pure colors-reds, purples, greens, dominated the collection.
(Original Caption) New York: Celebrating the move of his custom salon from 68th Street to Fifth Avenue overlooking St. Patrick's Cathedral, designer Halston unveiled his made-to-order collection featuring billowing dresses with ballooning skirts. Puffed skirts that filled with air like parachutes when the mannequins moved were the highlights of Halston's made-to-order Spring-Summer collection. Hems, turned under harem fashion, were often the dipping variety, revealing the legs and matching stockings. Dramatic pure colors-reds, purples, greens, dominated the collection.
This sleeveless gown with wrap in blue is one of the designs modeled at Halston's spring-summer collection.
This sleeveless gown with wrap in blue is one of the designs modeled at Halston's spring-summer collection.

#3 Halston 等於美國時尚

Halston 的設計在1970至1980年代遍佈整個美國,標誌式的麂皮、襯衫、外套等設計聞名,甚至佔據了每個美國人的衣櫥、每個年齡的女性生活;從年輕少艾到引領企業的獨立事業女性,都一一以實用性、簡約式的風格打造出各種魅力,看似最簡單的線條,卻擁有最複雜的設計。

說到 Halston 的經典之作不僅是 1977年秋冬系列,以羊毛針織、雪紡和天鵝絨打造的 High Rise 連身裙,達到視覺上修飾身形的效果,還有矚目的 Disco 風格設計、不對稱的西裝套裝和標誌性工作服;甚至擁有商業頭腦的他,隨後推出層出不窮的商品如皮草、行李箱、床單、化妝品建立 Halston 的時尚帝國,據估計到1983年,Halston 企業已經創造了1.5億美元的銷售額。

Halston and The Halstonettes (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images) *** Local Caption ***
Halston and The Halstonettes (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images) *** Local Caption ***

#4 Halston VS Halstonettes

每個品牌都擁有獨特代表性面孔,1990年代 Gianni Versace 與一眾傳奇超模 Naomi Campbell、Cindy Crawford、Claudia Schiffer、Linda Evangelista 和 Kate Moss 等塑造出超模文化;而早在1970年代,Halston 便有他的 Halston 女郎,稱為 Halstonettes:在《Yves Saint Laurent + Halston: Fashioning the 70s》一書中,指出 Halstonettes 不僅擁有高挑纖瘦的女性身形,在美麗矚目的面孔下還展示了種族多樣性的美麗,Pat Cleveland、Alva Chinn、Karen Bjornson 和 Anjelica Huston 等等便成為當時極具革命性的時代象徵。

1979年 Halston 帶著他的27位 Halstonettes 進行世界巡迴演出,從巴黎、北京、上海、東京等城市展示出流線型運動時尚,整趟旅行準備了超過500多套時裝,天橋上的還是天橋下的 off duty looks 都一應俱全,「我唯一沒有準備的是她們的內衣和睡衣。」Halston 表示。

NEW YORK CITY - SEPTEMBER 20: (L-R) David Geffen, Halston, Yves Saint Laurent, Steve Rubell, Nan Kempner and Fernando Sanchez attend 'Opium' Perfume Launch After Party on September 20, 1978 at Studio 54 in New York City. (Photo by Ron Galella, Ltd./Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
NEW YORK CITY - SEPTEMBER 20: (L-R) David Geffen, Halston, Yves Saint Laurent, Steve Rubell, Nan Kempner and Fernando Sanchez attend 'Opium' Perfume Launch After Party on September 20, 1978 at Studio 54 in New York City. (Photo by Ron Galella, Ltd./Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)

#4 最親密的 Halstonettes 也是靈感繆斯

Elsa Peretti 不僅是 Halston 的靈感繆斯更是設計上最佳拍檔,Halston 首個成衣系列上的珠寶配飾設計便是出自於 Elsa Peretti,就連資深時尚記者 André Leon Talley 形容兩人的合拍程度堪稱能在優雅宇宙中保持一致。

與其說 Elsa Peretti 是 Halston 繆斯,倒不如說 Halston 是 Elsa Peretti 的伯樂,因為 Elsa Peretti 成功珠寶事業也多虧了 Halston ,先在自己首個系列上發布聞名世界的 Tiffany & Co. 花瓶項鍊,隨後引薦 Elsa Peretti 到 Tiffany & Co. 擔任珠寶設計師,對簡約珠寶設計鑄造了功不可沒的歷史性作品。

Halston (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
Halston (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)

#5 成功衰落都由 Halston 一手打造

由於他對糜爛的派對生活和毒品的沉迷,Halston 在1984年被 Norton Simon 解僱離開自己時尚帝國,也失去了以自己名字做設計的權利。他在餘生中曾不斷地嘗試重奪品牌擁有權都失敗而回,1990年因於愛滋病有關的併發症而離世,
享年57歲。

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